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All about horses in northern B.C. Issue #3: November 15, 1999 by Kristi McCrindle, editor Well, as you may have noticed, the Feed and Care section was missing in the November 8th issue. We have a set number of words we try to stay between each week, so last week that section was omitted to make room for the long editorial, and this week I'm cutting back on the editorial to leave more room for the Feed & Care! We're pretty flexible here at Northern B.C. Horse on hiway16.com, our main commitment is to you, the reader! We welcome your comments on this page, and if you have anything you would like addressed, please email me at kristi@hiway16.com. Till next week - happy riding! ~ Kristi :) email to editor: kristi@hiway16.com Join us for a discussion about everything to do with horses on Horse Talk Your opportunity to meet horse enthusiasts across northern B.C.

Ever wondered about how to buy a blanket that will fit your horse? Winter blankets (and summer sheets too) come in easy to figure sizes - the number of the size is the actual number of inches the horse is in length. Start with a tape at the center of the chest, and measure around the point of the shoulder, along the barrel, and to the back of the horse under the tail. Blankets come in even sizes, such as 74", 76", 78" and so on, so if your horse measures out to an odd number, the best fit is usually the next size up. Other considerations come into blanket fit as well. If your horse has high withers, you may need to find a blanket that is cut back in the wither area, or with a sheepskin lining, to prevent rubbing. Some special blankets feature an adjustable shoulder system that allows you to change the way the shoulder hangs on your horse, also preventing blanket rub on the withers and points of shoulders. Standard blankets come with one belly strap and two hind leg straps. These hind leg straps seem to work best if they are crossed between the legs, either running from left to right and right to left, or by looping one strap through the other (this helps prevent the straps from pulling directly on the horse's legs should they become tangled). Also available on some blankets are bias surcingles, which consist of two belly straps which run front to back and back to front (crossing under the belly), offering a bit more stability along the barrel. A belly band can be found on some warmer winter blankets as well - it helps prevent heat loss in the belly and girth area. Most blankets I've seen sold up here are open fronts, but closed fronts are also an option. An open front is a blanket that has buckles or straps in the front, allowing you to undo it and adjust it, while a closed front is permanently closed, requiring a patient horse that will stand quietly while you pull the blanket on and off over his head. Next week? We'll talk briefly about blanket material, so if you have questions about what type of blanket fits your needs best, please email me this week at kristi@hiway16.com - again, any comments on trace or body clippng would also be appreciated.	Past articles are all available in the It is a good idea in the winter time to check on your horse's condition once a week. It is hard with the dark-to-dark hours we keep here in the north country to clearly see what shape our horses are in, but it is important to keep tabs on it! I suggest a once weekly ritual of checking your horse from head to tail (do try to check daily for wounds so they can be dealt with). In this weekly check (whatever day works best for you), start by catching your horse out in the field. Tie your horse up and stand back to have a good look at him. How does his overall body condition look? Does he have a huge tummy? Are his ribs and hip bones protruding? Or is it just too hard too see beyond all that fuzzy winter hair? Check specific areas by feeling with your hand along the top of his neck and backbone for fat deposits or depressions from lack of condition. Feel for his ribs and hip bones - you should feel them by pressing comfortably - you do want flesh over them but should be able to find them! How does your horse's hair coat look? No horse in the middle of winter is going to look super sleek and glossy, but they should still look healthy. An extra long, drab or patchy winter coat can be signs of malnutrition, worms, or even just being low on the herd's totem pole - all of which can affect your horse?s well being. Pick up and pick out his feet. Check for injuries such as sticks or ice poking into his frog or soles, or cuts from the same. Check the length and condition of his hoof walls - is he chipping up or getting really long? It may be time to schedule a farrier visit - horses still need attention in the winter even if not as often as the summer months. A well trimmed hoof will offer better traction than a too-long hoof, as well as help prevent tendon injuries from slipping with long toes. Picking out his feet once a week also ensures that you are removing harmful bacteria from manure that can cause thrush or foot rot (once a day is even better, but we know it is harder in the winter!). Next week, we'll go over checking your horse from head to toes and tail. If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com Northern B.C. Horse is brought to you courtesy of our advertisers including: The Tack Store Ridennoure Paint Horses Burns Lake Building Supplies Hoskins Ford Uniglobe Travel North Thanks to our advertisers for making this all possible... ...for information about advertising, email jim@hiway16.com	Ever seen a gymkhana horse coming into the arena on his hind legs? This is a horse so excited in anticipation of the event that he can't hardly think straight. He might run over anyone and anything in his path, maybe run backwards away from the ring... this horse is scary for both the rider and the others in the holding ring. Once in the ring, he might wheel or try to bolt, maybe rearing up again. In short, this horse is excited to the point of being dangerous, and it is time to fix the problem before continuing to run him. Now, I do have to say that this is only my opinion, based on my experiences, and you must remember that each horse is different and may respond differently to these techniques. Also, you need to be sure that your horse is not reacting adversely to pain from running with tack that doesn't fit quite right, or from an injury - to rule these out please consult first with your veterinarian or equine therapist. The best place to start working with your horse is at the arena you show the most at. Set him up in competition gear - often horses can tell the difference between their schooling bit and their show gear. Tack up and warm up as you normally would, then exit the arena and re-approach the whipper-in gate. Read your horse carefully - is he relaxed and quiet? If he is calm, he is not thinking of competition and you may need to do your retraining at an actual show. Or is he balky? Walking on springs? Tossing his head nervously and swinging his hind quarters from side to side? When he is excited, enter the ring as you normally would to compete, focussing on keeping yourself relaxed and quiet. If he balks, urge him forward as much as you feel safe to do so (if he is really dangerous at the gate, consider leading him into the arena and mounting inside). If he is balky and then plunges forward, go with him and don't check his forward motion abruptly as this is in essence punishing him for going forward, which you asked him to do - instead circle him up smaller and smaller until he slows back down again. Once inside the arena, allow him to settle - this may take 5 or 10 minutes or longer, be patient! If you are at a show doing this, please ask permission from the show staff to take up show time for this - perhaps they can arrange for the judge to take a short coffee break during your *run*. Do your best to keep from pulling on the reins during this time - by holding your horse in, you make him more tense. If he tries to go forward, check him firmly, say whoa, and then release as much as you can. If your horse quiets down from doing circles, then go ahead, but many horses seem to get more wound up by this - use your knowledge of your own horse to decide whether he'll relax faster standing or moving. As soon as your horse shows any sign of relaxing (and at first it may be a small sign!) pat him, dismount, and lead him out of the arena, without ever taking a run around the barrels (or whatever event was set up). If you continue to build on this, soon your horse should be staying more and more relaxed as you enter the arena. Keep concentrating on a loose rein and relaxed seat, which both make it more comfortable for him. When it is time to finally make a run again, do your run, then do whatever relaxation technique you've been doing until he quiets down again, then dismount and lead him out of the ring. It may seem funny to pay money to enter classes you don't even complete. Consider attending schooling shows which have lower entry fees and less pressure on the competitors. The end result will be worth it! Western, English, Penning or Trail riding, all equine sports have a voice on Northern B.C. Horse.

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