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Hoofpicks
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Here's a quick coverage this week on an often overlooked part of our grooming kit, the hoof pick.
A hoof pick is used to clean the manure, rocks, mud and other debris out of the underside of the horse's hoof and beside his frog, so it is an important part of one's kit - after all: no foot, no horse!
A hoof pick is usually made of metal (more durable than plastic) and consists of a handle and a hook. The hook usually has a flat edge that looks much like a slotted screwdriver (which by the way can be substituted if you can't find your pick, but be careful with it as the handle isn't set up to pry as well).
As your pick gets older, you'll notice the edges get duller and the corners of the hook end round off. If this happens, you might want to consider replacing it, but if it still gets the job done, don't worry too much about it! You may find a brand new pick to be too sharp at the start, so be careful of the corners.
The handle may be plastic, or plastic coated, or may be plain or painted metal. One particularly attractive pick I've seen is one made by a blacksmith from half of an old horseshoe. The curve of shoe becomes the handle, and a hole to hang it from can be punched in the end of the handle. Another good use for those old shoes!
Hoof picks are one of the easiest grooming tools to lose, partly because of their small size but also because they are so cheap to replace (less than $1.50 at most tack shops) that most people don't worry too much about them. If you get tired of replacing your pick every other month, consider tying a piece of thin rope or a strap of some sort to the handle. I've had the same hoofpick for years now because I have a nylon strap attached to it.
If you trail ride lots, you should make a hoof pick part of your trail kit. You can pack one in a jacket pocket, or tie it to a saddle string. You can also find leather sheathes to attach to your saddle that are made for a hoof pick to sit in, kind of like a knife case.
To keep your horses feet healthy and clean, carry your pick with you every time you head out to the field. It's a good idea to clean the hooves before and after a ride, so keeping your pick close at hand is always a good idea!
If you have tips or questions on equipment care, purchases, fit, or anything else to do with equestrian equipment, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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We update the Events Page regularly - so be sure to check often
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Western, English, Penning or Trail riding, all equine sports have a voice on Northern B.C. Horse.
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If you are new to Northern B.C. Horse, check out all the previous issues on the Archive page.
Kristi is building a great knowledge base about horses, with the emphasis on our area of the world.
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Past articles are all available in the
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Travelling tips - where to keep your horse
If you travel often with your horse, you have probably already worked out a system of what works for you (though some of this info might help!). But if you haven't gone too many places with your equine partner, you will benefit from this column about how to care for your horse when you are away from home.
For starters, consider what type of event you are going to. If you are showing, you will need to find facilities in which you can clean up your horse, such as wash racks, a place to plug in clippers if you use them, and possibly a stall to help keep your horse clean overnight. If it is a clinic you are attending, a good safe area to keep your horse is all you need - nobody really cares if he is dirty or hairy!
Find out ahead of time from the organizer what sort of accomodations are available. Are there box stalls, pens, or paddocks? Is there a choice, or some combination of them? Reflect on your horse's reaction to new situations - will he freak out if locked in a stall, or is he likely to get hurt in someone's wire fences? Choose which option will best suit your needs and your horse's comfort zone. Especially if you are showing, you want to keep him comfortable as a happy horse will perform better.
Depending on the time of year, you will want to think about weather and conditions. Late June might be a good time to have a stall even during the day, both to get out of the sun and get away from the bugs. March is cold and wintery and you might also want a stall at that time of year. If you are worried about rain, you will also want a stall, or a pen with a good shelter (the other option of course is a waterproof blanket).
Some places will allow you to set up your own panels and make up your own pens for your horse. You will need to pay close attention to the footing available as well as the weather - soft, dusty sand turns to mud if it rains! Grass does not last long under a horse in a small enclosure either, so if you plan on letting him graze in his pen, you will either need to make it bigger or move it every day (which can be hard work, those panels are heavy when joined together!). What I did in Quesnel was set up panels behind the trailer and used the trailer as their shelter. I had to move the panels twice and they still chewed the grass down faster than I could move the pen. Still, it was sure nice to have the horses right next to the arena, with water close by, and no cost for a stall... but I did pre-arrange it with the clinic organizer and the arena owners.
Next week, more feed and care tips for travelling with your horse....
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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A few more tips on selling via the internet
You have your horse advertised, and people are emailing you for more information. Now what?
Do be as honest as you can, without giving out so much negative information that your buyer will be scared off of your horse. If your horse kicks any time another horse gets near it, is important to let people know, but if your horse paws occasionally when standing tied, that is a far more forgiveable and typical horse behaviour.
If you know what you want and are not willing to drop your price, keep that in mind when your prospective buyer starts dithering. It is much easier to talk someone down via the impersonal email than if he was standing at your farm. Just like going to an auction, set your limit ahead of time and leave it there. If you are willing to make concessions for the perfect home, then set those ahead of time as well (easier said than done, I've been there and done that!).
Lots of people are interested in trades. Just remember that whatever you trade for, you will either be stuck with or will be faced with selling later! There are many times where deals work out where both sides are happy, but there are reasons they want to get rid of their horse too (or trailer, or whatever it was you traded for). Trading a well trained horse for a young prospect might look sound on paper, but training is what brings up the value of your horse. If you find out that the prospect has something wrong with it after your trade, you may now have a horse that is actually worth less than your trained horse.
Lastly, be prepared to let go of a potential sale. Nothing is more annoying when you are on the buying end than to have someone pester you about their horse when you have already decided you don't want it. While you may think your horse is the best in the world, if a buyer does not contact you again, it is polite to email once afterwards to touch base again (never know, their computer could have crashed and they've lost your address, happened to me once!) but after that, just leave them alone. And when you get into that situation, just re-read this paragraph!
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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