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Issue # 34: June 26, 2000 Published each Monday
From the Saddle
by Kristi McCrindle, editor
Last week I talked about my motivations for showing and how I deal with show prep. I mentioned that I had borrowed a horse to go *play* with, instead of worrying about competing, but that I hadn't yet decided whether or not to take my own horses. So did I leave you sitting and wondering what I ended up doing?

Well, what I did was decide that the main reason for showing should be to have fun - after all, that's why I ride, right? So keeping that in mind, and the fact that neither of my horses had gone through any show prep, I left them home and took the borrowed gelding and headed for Smithers.

Arriving mid-way through the day on Saturday, I was there before the start of the reining. After helping in the office for a while, I tacked up and rode in the warm-up pen. Tex was so good, I decided to post enter in the reining classes, and he surprised us all by winning all four classes! I was thrilled when I was able to phone home and report to his owners how their horse had done, especially seeing as he is for sale. He hasn't done reining for three years but remembered enough to get by!

The best part of all was that it was fun. Not having spent weeks and months training with this horse, I felt I had nothing to prove. All pressure was removed, which allowed me to ride strictly for fun. And it was fun!

And that is why I ride, and why I show. Now I'm back in the groove with my own horses again, prepping for the PG Ride N Slide (July 7 & 8, see Current Events next week).

Taking time out to appreciate a show as a social event and chance to play with a horse instead of seeing it as a serious competition was a really nice way to spend the weekend. Now if only I can keep that mind set when I go to Prince George!

And by the way, we had a ball in gymkhana too - we were usually 3rd or 4th of 4, but hey, Tex did what he was asked even though he didn't have a clue what the events were. It was a great chance to socialize and enjoy a day with friends - can hardly wait until the next one!

'Til next week,
~ Kristi :)

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Speed control

Anyone who has ever competed in reining knows the importance of speed control. Reining maneuvres include large fast circles usually followed by small slow circles. To show that your horse is willingly guided and completely dictated to (as per the rule book!), you want to have seamless transitions from slow to fast and fast to slow.

Gaining speed is something that most horses do well. There are lots of go-faster cues that horses seem to learn early on in training, including more leg pressure, clucking, and moving the reins forward.

Slowing down is not so easily done gracefully. The most common way to slow down is to pick up the reins and pull until the horse slows down, which is simply not good enough in a reining competition when you are trying to show your horse on a loose rein. At best, shortening up the reins shows the judges that you are no longer in complete control on a loose rein, and you may loose points for degree of difficulty. At worst , your horse may resist the slow down cue requiring you to really have to pull - not good!

Working with J.P. Forget, I have learned a really good method of speed control. After all the slow down work I have been doing with Riser, I wasn't so sure I should be going fast with him at all, but we will have to do it at the Ride N Slide so I have to start schooling it.

Start by putting your horse on a circle at the lope. Let him warm up quietly on the circle, nice and quiet. If your guiding needs work, make your corrections, but mostly just leave him to lope. After half a dozen or so circles, as you come across center start adding speed.

The way J.P. recommends adding speed is simply to add a bit of legs and push the horse a bit faster. You can keep adding a bit more speed but make sure you are not being run away with or that the horse is no longer guiding - both of those need to be corrected.

To slow down, quit riding as you come off the wall heading towards center. Just sit back in a neutral position and quit pushing the horse ahead. Ideally the horse will quit running and by the time he crosses the center mark he will back in a slow lope. In reality, it doesn't usually work that way! To school the horse, if he hasn't made a definite effort to slow down by half way to center, quietly pull him down to walk. Much like the work I was doing with Riser (see From The Saddle - May 22 issue), this doesn't make a big deal of anything - it is simply guiding the horse to the walk instead of making it a real correction.

I wasn't so sure it would work with Riser as he had been so silly about going fast, but I thought I'd give it a shot. Twice we went through the slow circles and building faster circles, and twice I had to pull him down after asking him to slow. He just didn't realize he was supposed to go back to he lope. The third time, he broke to trot almost immediately after I quit riding him forward - a little bit too much slow down, but the right answer!

So it does work, though to start this I'd suggest having a horse that is broke well enough to lope slowly and quietly when asked - trying this on a horse that already moves too quickly isn't going to help. You can work those transitions from lope to walk as I had done on Riser though, and it should help sharpen up your horse's response to the gentle pick up on the reins to mean slow down.

If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com
Portable Fencing

Electric - Becoming more popular is the portable electric fence. Small portable posts can be transported to the show - we use 5' lengths of re-bar, or you can buy posts at the local feed store. Spool out your wire or tape, attach it with insulators, hook up your battery operated fencer and then the battery (or a or solar powered model), and you're in business! Your horse should know ahead of time what an electric fence is, but will likely be very safe in this enclosure (provided he doesn't break out!).

Panels - You can bring your own panels to an event and set them up. I like to use four or five behind the stock trailer, leaving the back half of the trailer open as a shelter. Use a minimum of four 10' panels in a square pattern, or add an existing fence, trailer side or more panels to enlarge it. You can pack panels in the back of the truck, inside the trailer, or set up racks on the outside of the trailer for transporting them.

T-posts and rails - This set up takes a bit of work compared to the other two methods and may not keep all horses in, but it is cheaper than buying a fencer and battery, or buying panels. It uses a minimum of four t-posts, eight rails, sixteen eye bolts, and 12 two foot chunks of PVC pipe. Drive the t-posts into the ground until secure, then slide a two foot PVC pipe chunk over each post. Screw the eye bolts into the ends of the rails, and slide them over the t-posts to make the first rail of your corral. Slide the next chunks of pipe over the posts, then add the second rail. Use the third set of PVC pipe pieces on top of the posts - you can secure them by drilling a hole through the pipe and wiring the pieces of pipe to the top holes in the t-posts.

In case that thoroughly confused you, you'll end up with a four-sided corral with two rails at 2' and 4'. You can change things to suit your own needs - you may prefer three rails, or more sides, but that is up to individual preference.

There are lots of options available besides the standard stalls and corrals if you are out on the road this summer. Know your horse and his limits - stay safe

If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com

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