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Hang It Up!
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There are several ways of making an inexpensive bridle hanger that looks nice and does the job well.
You can use something as simple as a few nails in the wall, or get really fancy and weld up an artistic horseshoe rack. We'll look at a few different ones.
For starters, it is recommended that you hang leather gear on something smoother and wider than the average nail. Old horseshoes come in handy, as do pieces of dowel (either bought from the lumber store, or just use the handle from an old broom or broken stable fork). Both are smooth edged and unlikely to damage the leather.
To use dowel, I found a way that works really well, and doesn't require trying to nail through a board into the small stick of wood. Start with your chosen main board (most of mine are pieces of 2 x 6 that can be attached to the barn wall with screws or large nails later). At appropriate intervals (I like about 8' apart) drive a large nail part way in, on a slight upward angle. I used nails that were about 2 1/2' long and thick enough to hold the weight of a bridle hanging on them (sorry to be so vague, it's been years since I made this!). Drive them partway into the main board, leaving 2/3 or so sticking out.
Choose a drill bit that is the same size as the head of the nails you used on the board. Drill a hole in the flat end of the piece of dowel, and then simply slide the hole in the dowel over the nail - voila, a nice smooth hanger. Repeat this for more hangers.
Next week, recycle those old horseshoes!
If you have tips or questions on equipment care, purchases, fit, or anything else to do with equestrian equipment, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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We update the Events Page every week - so be sure to check often
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Western, English, Penning or Trail riding, all equine sports have a voice on Northern B.C. Horse
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If you are new to Northern B.C. Horse, check out all the previous issues on the Archive page.
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Summer checklist
Are you all ready for summer? Here's a quick check list to run through to see if you and your barn buddy are ready for a serious season of summer riding and fun.
Have you vaccinated your horse for the summer season? Given it the tetanus, EEE and WEE? How about the rhino-flu vaccine for show horses, young stock and broodmares going out for breeding? Remember that while the first three tend to be longer lasting and may only need biannual boosters, the rhino-flu is a short-lived protection and should be boosted at least once during the summer. Most vets recommend every 3 months for the rhino-flu booster.
Have you dewormed them? Remember to occasionally switch dewormers to allow for rotation which prevents building of immunities (rotate the FAMILY of the deworming drug, not just the on-sale name). For more info on deworming for our area, contact your local equine vet.
Have you started up again with your farrier for regular 8 week visits (or every 6 weeks if needed)? Got those hooves picked out, trimmed up, and made sure there is no thrush or other hoof ailments to deal with? As the old saying goes, no foot, no horse, so it is very important to make sure that your horse's feet are ready for the riding season. Your horse may need shoes, depending on the amount and type of riding you do, or he may make out just fine with regular trims. Each horse's needs should be evaluated individually, and remember that horses just standing in the pasture also need regular maintenance.
By now you must be in serious shedding season, so help your horse's haircoat along by regular grooming sessions. Get out the shedder blade to pull out loose winter hair, and get in deep with a good rubber curry to stimulate the skin, which encourages new hair growth. Exercise also helps hair growth, so it's time to get back to work!
Work out your conditioning program. A horse coming in from the field after six months of holidays is going to need to be legged up carefully, especially if you plan on doing heavy work with him (jumping, cattle work, barrel racing, dressage, mountain riding, etc). Just as you will be sore your first few days back in the saddle, your horse will also be stiff and tender. Make allowances for that, and don't push too hard all at once. Remember that the whole body of the horse needs conditioning - cardiovascular, muscle structure, and support structures - the tendons and ligaments, which take the longest to condition are the easiest to damage.
If you keep all that in mind, you should be pretty much ready to get riding. Enjoy!
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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Horse selling - writing that ad
So you've decided where to list your horse, now you need to write an ad that will attract the right buyer.
First, give as much detail as you can fit on your internet ads. It will save you talking to people for whom your horse isn't suitable, and helps people to get interested - if it just says "gelding for sale" people probably won't call, know what I mean?! If you can do a photo ad, do it, for the same reason. If they don't like what they see, they won't waste their time or yours (and for that exact reason, choose a GOOD picture). Also include your price. No point in someone getting all excited about your horse, then finding out you want twice what they can afford.
Second, have lots of pictures available via email - if you don't have a scanner, find a friend that does! Learn about sizing photos for emailing purposes - you want to keep your files under 100 KB (most of mine are around 30 KB) so they download faster - and use a readily accessible file format, such as .jpg, so that anyone can open it. Also keep in mind that aol users can only open one picture per email - you'll need a new message for each photo. You might want to consider setting up a photo album somewhere - I really enjoy mine at www.photopoint.com. In fact, if you want to have a look at it, email me for the address. It's really easy to do, and the pictures load quickly for viewers.
Third, if at all possible get a video done up - show conformation, movement on the leadrope, going under saddle or lungeline (depending on level of training), any special training your horse has, being tacked and untacked, etc. Pay special attention to the background (sagging barbed wire fences and pastures full of weeds really detract from the overall impression!). Get copies made of the video and consider charging a refundable-on-return $10 fee to send one out - lots of people don't bother to send them back, even though they don't want the horse. You also might want to just *sell* the video for a fee enough to cover the postage and the tape and not ask for it back. Postage is a bit high on videos so make sure your customer is sincerely interested before sending on out - you can screen out a lot of unsuitable buyers by asking them questions about their needs.
When someone emails you, email back promptly. If you haven't checked recently and find the note to you, apologize for taking so long. People using email tend to expect instant gratification, and you are trying to keep the customer happy! If they include a phone number, consider calling them for a more personal touch (keep in mind the time zone differences though!).
Be honest about any problems the horse may have. While the person you are talking to may not buy the horse for that reason, someone else will come along and not mind the problem at all. I once sold a mare after owning her a very short time, her main vice was pulling back when tied, something I can't stand. Her buyers said, "Oh, that's okay. Lady (another mare they own) pulls back if tied too, so we just hang her leadrope over the hitching post and don't tie her". And so they don't tie Sam either!
Next week, selling across the line....
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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