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Caring for clippers
After listening to all the differing opinions on clipping, I did compile a list of things to do with the clippers themselves.
To start with, if your clippers are new, or you've never clipped before - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! You will found out all sorts of neat information most people pay no attention to <grin>
If new, the clippers come with a protective coating on the blades. This coating must be washed off before using them. Set up a small dish or can (I used a clean tuna can, it was just big enough) and put a little bit of blade wash in it.
Blade wash is sold by the clipper companies, and if you can you might as well stay with the same brand as your clippers - that way, if you have any warranty work, you can tell them you were using their product, not someone else's.
Wash the blades by turning them on and running them in the solution. Don't get any part of the clippers in the wash except for the blades. Turn the clippers off and unplug them (always unplug them before servicing to prevent mishaps). Remove the blades - the clippers I bought have an easily detached blade which makes them very nice to work with - and wipe the blade wash off.
Oil the clippers with a drop of lubricating oil on the contact spots (check the diagram that came with the clippers if in doubt). They also recommend finishing the prep by spraying the blade part with a lubricating product (they suggested Kool-Lube in my pamphlet) while they are running, then wiping off the excess. You will find that you are plugging and unplugging your set frequently!
Clean the blades after each use to remove hair and dirt before storing your set. By doing this, the clippers are ready to use each time you take them out of the box - and they'll last longer by being properly maintained!
Taking good care of your clippers is time consuming, but will be better in the long run as they require less maintenance and repairs over time. |
| If you have tips or questions on equipment care, purchases, fit, or anything else to do with equestrian equipment, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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Western, English, Penning or Trail riding, all equine sports have a voice on Northern B.C. Horse
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Preventing and managing dust allergies
So, what can you do to prevent dust allergies and heaves? The main key is environment control.
Horses are healthiest kept outdoors with access to shelter from wind and wet weather, rather than kept in a stall filled with sawdust. Hay must be clean and free of mold spores, which seem to be one of the biggest causes of dust allergies. Smell your hay before you feed it, and if you don't like the smell, don't feed it to your horse! Don't ride in dusty arenas or stand near one when other people are riding.
What if your horse already has a dust allergy? How can you manage it? Try wetting the feed down. It can be difficult in the cold of a northern winter, but it is much healthier for your horse. Soaking seems to be the best way - simply running a hose over the hay doesn't do much for it. Use a large Rubbermaid tote mostly filled with water and simply add your next feeding to it - the shape and size is sufficient to fit several flakes of hay.
If you don't have access to lots of water, you can reuse the hay water but you will notice it turns sour very quickly. If possible, replace the water every couple of days - I can't imagine it tastes all that good to the horse!
You can also use a haynet if you soak the feed first. Otherwise feeding in a haynet is out - having the dust at head level is not good for an allergic horse. Horses should be fed at ground level if possible (which not always so good in mud season or if you have lots of sand in your ground).
In severe cases, you may have to look at cutting hay rations altogether and switching to a pelleted feed such as Roughage and All, or Complete Feed. These feeds are meant to replace a hay ration altogether, but talk it over with your veterinarian first. A horse is naturally a grazer so taking away his grazing time may affect his mental well being (turning him to fence chewing, etc).
There are other methods of helping your dust-allergic horse, but hay is definitely one of the main culprits. Next week we'll look at a few other management techniques.
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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Clipping - at last, we get there!
Before you start to clip, read the directions! The clippers must be clean, oiled and lubricated before use, or they will wear out faster (both the blades and the motor). Once the clippers are prepped (see Equipment) you can head over to your horse.
To start with, if you don't know that your horse has ever been clipped before, it is best to assume he hasn't. Introduce him slowly to the clippers so that you don't scare him.
Start by letting him smell the clippers and rub him with them - while they are turned off. Use them like a brush and rub him enough that he relaxes about the idea. Then turn them on and repeat the procedure, again until he gets comfortable with them. Depending on your horse, this may take a while! Raime, quiet, bombproof Raime, was convinced they were going to eat him! (actually, I think he was sure they were part of the electric fence)
If you are using clippers with an electrical cord, be careful where you go. Don't travel around your horse as he may spook when the cord comes up against the backs of his legs. This is where a set of cordless clippers can be safer, though there are cons too (see Equipment - March 20).
When you start clipping, pick a less-threatening, less ticklish area such as the forearm. This way, the horse is more likely to get accustomed to the clippers without much fuss, and if you change your mind it isn't too big a deal! If you are show clipping instead of body clipping, consider doing the fetlocks before the bridle path and muzzle - not only are the legs not so sensitive, but a mistake there isn't nearly as bad as one like cutting off a big chunk of mane!
If body clipping, clip against the hair, running in the direction opposite the hair grain. Go slowly. The motor shouldn't be labouring - deeper or slower clipper noise means that the blades are not travelling up to speed and will leave tracks behind as well as burn out the motor faster. Overlap each stroke by half to one third. This helps eliminate clipper tracks and is also less stressful on the motor. Less stress means less wear and less heat - better for both the horse and the clippers.
Stop frequently to give your arm, your horse, and your clippers a break. Allow the clippers to cool off - ridges on the skin can be left by blades that are too warm, not to mention making your horse fidget! Take this time to clean your blades (unplug the clippers first) by using a little brush to remove all the hair you can, both from the works as well as the blades themselves (especially down in the cracks and crevices). When the teeth in the blades are crudded up with little pieces of hair, the clippers will run slower and hotter than when cleaned frequently.
Body clipping (especially the first time!) can take hours and hours of your time. To be done right takes patience and diligence - as one lady told me, clipping is an art that must be learned over time. It is best if you can have someone show you how to use the clippers and teach you tips and techniques as you go - you?re less likely to make mistakes that way. I wish I'd had someone to watch!
And there, now you have a basic guide to clipping, which is more than I had when I started out!
If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com |
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