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Choosing a trainer - Choosing a trainer - Tune-ups - Part 3
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What qualities do you look for when choosing a trainer for an older horse who needs finishing or a tune up?
When your car needs a new engine, you don't take it to an oil change shop. When you want an antique dresser fixed up, chances are you don't take it to a carpenter. Horses needing finishing work are no different - they require a different professional approach than an unstarted horse. Most definitely look for a trainer who is current on the discipline you will be using your horse in. If possible, try to find one that uses complimentary methods to those used in the horse's past history - it is much easier to build on the foundation than to change the program and start again from scratch. If your plans are to show this horse, choose a trainer that pays attention to detail. Someone who has only basic principles of western pleasure may worry more about the "headset" and slow gaits of the horse than developing the balance and true collection required of a top pleasure horse. Again, if you are planning on showing this horse, you should try to find someone who is respected in your chosen discipline. There will be good reason that he or she is respected, and their knowledge will come to good use in helping you with your finished horse. This trainer needs to be well versed with different training methods in order to ride these different horses and still get them finished - you may choose a trainer with other things in mind than the horse's previous training, and in some cases, the trainer will have to overcome blocks or holes in the horse's foundation. In case of a tune-up job, the trainer needs to be able to work with behaviours that may be difficult as well, depending on the reason you are sending your horse. Be honest and up front - if your horse rears when being ridden into the roping chute, tell the trainer! If your horse has a tendency to bunch up and get racy when ridden near cows, ask the trainer to work specifically on that problem. Especially if the behaviour presented can be dangerous, make sure you inform the trainer so that he or she can be aware of bad situations before they happen. |
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Roans are often misunderstood, again because of the lack of knowledge for many years about what creates certain colour patterns. A roan, simplified, is white hairs scattered throughout the coat. However, as you have read in recent weeks, sabinos and rabicanos both often carry that trait and they are most definitely not roans. A true roan will stay one colour most of its life, with shade variations from summer to winter coats. A roan's head and legs tend to be darker than the shade found on the body. A red roan and blue roan will have black points (legs, mane and tail), and the strawberry roan will have a red points - neither will have an abundance of white hairs mixed in. Like many other coat modifiers, there are different terms used for the different base coats. A chestnut or sorrel roan is called a strawberry roan, while a bay roan is correctly called a red roan. A black roan is commonly called a blue roan due to the blue-ish hue the coat takes on. Please link to our Photo Page for some examples. Where things can get confusing is when people incorrectly refer to a partially greyed horse as a roan. This used to be very common in Arabians, where some lines have a high incidence of grey. Part way through the greying process, a chestnut horse may appear very much like a strawberry roan - however, you can usually tell by checking the head. If the face is also carrying an abundance of white hairs, chances are the horse is a grey, not a roan. This can get even trickier is when young horses are misregistered. The greying process usually takes place later in life, and registration papers are often left uncorrected. The horse may have been registered as a solid colour, or even as a roan, but if it has a grey parent and does not have a true roan parent, it is a grey, not a roan. I do know of one stallion in Alberta that carries both the roan and the grey gene. It is a 50% chance for him to throw each gene - so you could end up with a solid horse, a grey, a roan, or a roan that will grey later - you might not know for certain until the foal was mature! One thing to watch for in roans is that it is believed that homozygous roans do not survive in utero. Breeding a roan to a roan runs a 25% chance of reabsorption of the fetus - you would assume the mare miscarried along the way, when it in fact was caused by the fetus having two roan genes. The safest bet to get a roan foal is to breed a roan to a non-roan; you only run a 50% chance of getting a roan but no chance of a homozygous fetal death. |
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If you have tips or questions you'd like to share with other local equestrians, please mail them to kristi@hiway16.com
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